Hybrid line anchor alternative

This muzzle didn't turn out quite like I wanted for my new hybrid, so I used it to prototype a line anchor idea that I had. I wanted something that was secure, without requiring the typical two-screw mounting plate. I figured that if I could do without the mounting plate, then I would have more flexibility in designing the muzzle. I wouldn't need to leave a big flat surface, or necessarily enough thickness to hold the mounting screws.

So this is what I came up with. I first drilled two holes for the line anchor wire, on about a 60° angle, and all the way out the top. Then I started where the hole exited the top, and cut two small recesses along the top of the part that inserts into the barrel. I bent my stainless wire into a narrow "U" shape, and inserted it from the bottom until it projected about 1/2" out from the top. Then I folded that extra 1/2" over, and down into the recesses. Once the muzzle is inserted into the barrel, the walls of the barrel restrain the wire from straightenning, and keep everything locked securely in place.

It leaves a nice clean install from the outside, even if the bottom of the muzzle is curved. And it allows a little more flexibility if you want a line anchor that is longer or wider.

Just another option for the tinkerers out there.

He does most of it with smoke and mirrors - the rest is done on either the mill or lathe. He be purdy good wid dem der fancy mochines.

Quote from pargo

. . .but how do you shape it?

Chad is right about using both a mill and a lathe. A mill allows you to make things flat or perpendicular, while a lathe allows you to make things cylindrical or conical. Using each machine at different times allows you to make a combination shape (like a muzzle) that neither machine could make alone. My manual machines are not as fancy as the computer controlled ones, but they can do a lot.

I've been fortunate to spend a fair bit of time watching some really good machinists. The actual cutting of the part is pretty simple since Delrin cuts easily and cleanly. What the crusty old guys taught me, is that the art is to shape in the right order so that you always have something accurate to hold on to while making the next cut. That's always the challenge.

I will taper the entry into the muzzle a little more than what's shown just to add a margine of safety. I don't anticipate the shaft rolling enough to be a problem, but I've been wrong before. You think it will be a problem?

Remember also that there is an enclosed track for the first 26" of the wood stock at the rear of the tube. Hopefully, that will get the shaft started off right.

I don't have enough experience with different guns to say which is easier to load. In this case, I was really just trying to keep the top of the muzzle at the same height as the top of the enclosed track at the rear of the gun, so that you are sighting parallel to the shaft when you look down the gun.

But I certainly could cut away the top of the muzzle and make it an "open" style if need be.

I'll post up a full thread when it's done, but I am not quite finished. The body of the gun is complete, and the trigger mech is installed. The shapelock handle is ready. I just need to make a new muzzle, and do the pushrod and line release.

Come to think of it, maybe I'll make my new muzzle enclosed, and cut this one down to an open style. Then I can try both, and see which I prefer.

I don't know. It just looks boring. I know it's completely functional, but it just seems out of place on this gun.

I also dion't like the way it looks when I sight down the barrel. It's kind of hard to explain, but it's almost like it camouflages the end of the barrel. Sort of like if you have ever driven a car with a gently rouned hood, and noticed that it can be tough to tell exactly where the end is.

Quote from Dan

I have no experience with it but yes I think it could be a problem. I believe you will see wear in the areas where the tab can catch on the top of the track. I wouldn't make the muzzle with an enclosed track to go with that tube. Lets see what happens.

Oops. Don't know whether it was the sharkfins on the shaft, or the hard wire wishbones, but the enclosed muzzle didn't work out. This was the first shot.

I'm kind of inclined to think it was the wishbones, since there is damage to both sides. It seems to me that if the shaft were rotated to one side (and the damage caused by the fins), then the damage would be only on one side. But I'm not in the mood to make another muzzle to test that. I'll just go with my open design.