Need advice on barrel dimensions

  • Hi fellow gun builders and spearos, I need your advice on safe barrel dimensions for my next project.
    I have gotten my hands on a 7 mm/140 cm spear and need a gun to go with it.
    I want a 2 band gun, 16 or 18 mm bands. I'm building the gun out of teak lams.
    I want a slim gun that tracks easily horizontally, so i'm thinking of a Riffe style barrel but more rounded.
    I wouldn't want to build a barrel only to find out that it bends under load.
    How slim can i go without sacrificing rigidity?


    Please :)


    /Henrik

  • I have seen them 1.25'' height and 1.75'' width with no problems on a 55'' barrel with 2- 5/8'' bands.
    Dan has built a couple of thin guns, you should ask him or try and find the dimensions on his threads.
    I just remembered, I did one 1.125'' wide (that's one inch and one eight) by 1.75'' tall. Also 2-5/8 bands.

  • if your using wood I wouldn't worry about it bending unless you make it really slim in which case there wouldn't be room for the trigger mech anyway

  • My last gun is 2.9cm wide and 4.0cm tall, something like a Riffe competitor series stock. There's no flexing with two 16mm bands, and I suspect there won't be with another band or two. Like Jarey said, by the time it will flex it will be too thin to accommodate a trigger mechanism. I really can't see a reason for going thinner than my gun. I'm looking for it to be easy for me to grip around and swim with. I did wonder in the past though how thin a wood stock can be, like if a thick broomstick handle will hold two bands. Davie (seaweed) made a very thin gun once.

  • My first build was slightly less than 1.25" tall, with horizontal hickory lams. It bent a little under 2 5/8" bands, and the effect on accuracy was noticeable. That gun is now retired, unfortunately, but it was a good learning experience. With vertical lams and different wood your results could be better, though.


    Besides bending, also consider the potential recoil of a 7mm shaft, and the need for enough gun mass to counter it.


    Good luck, and post pictures of the gun build, as well as the fish you wind up getting with it!

    Alex

  • Thank you for your input :)
    I have attached a few pics of my latest project, a little 65 cm gun for murky water hunting.
    The barrel dimensions are w: 38mm h: 34mm. The barrel is teak and handle is walnut.
    I mounted the handle with a sliding dovetail, so it won't pull out when tracking the gun vertically in the water.
    It needs balancing and then 8 layers of hand rubbed tung oil finish.
    Based on your input I will try to make a 110 cm gun in basically the same lay-out as this little one.

  • My first build was slightly less than 1.25" tall, with horizontal hickory lams. It bent a little under 2 5/8" bands, and the effect on accuracy was noticeable. That gun is now retired, unfortunately, but it was a good learning experience. With vertical lams and different wood your results could be better, though.


    Besides bending, also consider the potential recoil of a 7mm shaft, and the need for enough gun mass to counter it.


    Good luck, and post pictures of the gun build, as well as the fish you wind up getting with it!


    you defiantly want to use vertical lams the difference in the amount of pressure that it takes to bend a horizontal piece of wood and a vertical piece is enormous.

  • you defiantly want to use vertical lams the difference in the amount of pressure that it takes to bend a horizontal piece of wood and a vertical piece is enormous.


    the lam direction has very little to do with stiffness . take a 1" x1" laminated block and it will flex almost the same no mater what is the top (as long as the lams are 1/4" or thicker). once wood is glued back together just look at the outside dimensions for stiffness ,not how its glued up . weather the wood is quarter or plain sawn has much more to do with direction of most flex.
    phil

  • Phil, if the lams are less than a 1/4" which side of the stock will be stiffer, the lam face side or the edges side?


    It depends on how the wood was sawn but normaly it would be weaker 90deg to the glue line. At 1/4" or thicker lams it should be about the same on all sides but a blank should be checked for spine due to stress in the wood
    Phil

  • onkelhedde- very nice look to the gun you posted..I respect good craftsmanship very much, that gun has very nice lines.


    did you also secure the handle to the stock with a pin or just the dovetail and expoxy?

    i like to spear fish

  • Thank you all for the kind words :)
    LunkerBuster: The handle is not pinned, but I don't count on breaking it off.
    If you look at the front of the handle, you can see that it is cut at an angle into the teak barrel.
    This will, I hope, prevent tearing the handle out when tracking vertically
    The sliding dovetail goes all the way to the mech, so it is quite deep. All in all there are so many interlocking contact surfaces, that I will have to break the wood, for the handle to come off.
    Does this make sense?:confused1:

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