its only as good as having the place to post it![]()
Broward Beach Conditions
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way to fight the good fight against those pesky macks...cant ever let them think they are winning
I wish i could have joined you, but i'm still to sick to dive anyway

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for sure man,, this one beast one today would of been picture worthy fur shua:blowup:.. u sick sick or partyed to hardy sick? either way good luck with that drink some OJ lol,, and yeah hope to see you out again soon
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this is flu sick unfortunately....not glory in that

at least you left him out there for next time
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got out at 830 with hau. I stopped at second reef becasue i had school at 3 today, he continued on to the third. water was quite clear and ocean was a lake. not many fish on the second reef, but reef life was very active. many eels and reef fish out and about. Second reeef was crawling with margates but im not such a fan. came back into the first with scott and got 2 hogs. I saw two very very nice kings , shot one but it was a long shot and didnt pass the flopper, so it tore off.. beyond frusturated.
current running somehwat strong from north to south. water clarity was not great but a lot better than it has been. -
Are you using a yak Steven?
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yessir,, a little one. i believe there are pictures on a thread somehwere around ehre on kayak mods
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11-1 at Meade #142
in at 830 an out at 1230
3 dogs, 1 schoolmaster
seas almost FLAT11-2 at Meade #143
in at 8am-out at 1230
2 macs, 2 hogs, 3 dogs, 2 schoolmasters
very quiet out on the ocean, flat an no wind, viz getting better11-3 at Meade #144
begin at 830-------------------------end at 5pm
wind from E at 3mph---------------from E at 8mph
water temp 79f
current from N at 1 1/2mph------from N at 1/2mph
viz 55f in 65fsw--------------------30f in 50fsw
seas flat----------------------------less than 2f
air 74F 5% clouds----------------85F 25% cloudsMe an sdeisen88 started out at 830 and he had to work so he stopped at the second reef to hunt
I yaked on out to the 3rd and found a top at 50fsw and anchored up at first then drifted. The sand was 65fsw
got 2 hogs, 3 jacks, 1 30in mac, 1 16in mutton and 1 TWENTY-FIVE inch mutton
[may b my PB mutton]
I'ts been 13 months since I speared in deeper water an it was WONDERFUL
I saw bigger fish but only had 1 band on so I didn't shoot. Now I gotta up power my gear for 3rd reef winter hunting :attack2: :fishswim: -
Now I have 2 questions for local spearos
1. is there anywhere a site or information as to near shore water current direction flow?
[I want to be able to know which direction the near shore current is moving before I paddle all the way out to the 3rd reef. N to S flow ==crap viz]
[thanks seaweed
]2. I need a 5/64 tungsten carbide drill bit to drill my RA shafts. All I can find so far is 1/8 at McDonalds Hwd on 84th. 1/8 is way to big
Does anyone know where I can purchase a 5/64th tc bit please?Thanks for the help
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Why is N to S current bad vis? I haven't recognized this pattern so far.
Why is 1/8 too big?
I don't believe it necessarily has to be tungsten carbide, I think %100 carbide will do http://www.biscotoolsupply.com…actional_sizes___564.html
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Dan--my good friend seaweed taught me that when the current is N to South and the tide is outgoing that the viz south of the Dania inlet [?] is clouded up with all the brown water and debis from the inlet waters.
I can go to sites that tell me when the tide is outgoing but need to know when the near shore current is south flowing. The Dania / Meade reef viz is not clouded up by the inlet water if the current is south to north. The opposite is true if I was hunting Vista reefs that are North of the inlet1/8 is 3/64th bigger than the pin I want to use and the pin is so sloppy in the 1/8 hole that the pin adhesive [JB Weld] has to have strength to hold the pin from rotating forward in the sloppy hole. A 5/64 hole would be the correct size and all the adhesive would have to do is keep the pin from slipping out. The 5/64 pin hole would be tight enough that the pin could not rotate forward.
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I have SS pins of varying diameters, if you want come by and I'll help you out with it.
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Dan---Thanks for the offer of the pins

I wanted to use a very small size pin as I don't want to weaken the RA shaft any more than necessary. That is why I tried at first to just put a tab on top of the shaft with no hole drilling but that didn't work. The hole and pin method is going to be something that I can do at home to all my shafts once I find the 5/64 bit.The 5/64 pin is plenty big enough to hold th minimum pressure of a band just enough to keep it hooked onto the shaft. If I can't find the 5/64th bit then I'll have to use a bigger hole and bigger pin.
You were correct about the tungsten carbide bits. I chucked up the 1/8th tc in the drill press and in a few min the RA shaft was drilled
ThanksMaybe TinMan or someone knows where to get 5/64th tungsten carbide bits.
I was hoping to find them local though.edit---The PINNED RA shafts from the factory use pins less than 1/8in diam to hold fully stretched bands, so there is no doubt that the 5/64in pin is plenty strong enough to hold a band just 15in back from the muzzle end. A 5/64in hole will weaken the spear less than a 1/8th hole.
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Looks like we're fu-ked for a while

FRIDAY
NORTHEAST WINDS 20 TO 25 KNOTS. SEAS 7 TO 9 FEET.
SATURDAY
NORTHEAST WINDS 25 TO 30 KNOTS. SEAS 8 TO 10 FEET.
SUNDAY
EAST WINDS 20 TO 25 KNOTS. SEAS 5 TO 7 FEET.
MONDAY
EAST WINDS 20 TO 25 KNOTS. SEAS 4 TO 6 FEET. -
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Maybe TinMan or someone knows where to get 5/64th tungsten carbide bits.
I was hoping to find them local though.Here's your 5/64" carbide drill bit. $7.75 each.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2956a12/=4dirbt
If you order a bit, get yourself a center drill (aka "drill point countersink") as well. These are short and stubby, so they don't flex. Use them to make a tiny dimple where you want the hole to be. That way, the drill bit won't "walk" around trying to start. A #2 in high speed steel is $4.73.
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Jeff, How do you use a drill point countersink?
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You chuck it in the drill press, just like a regular bit. But rather than drilling a hole, you use it (in this case) just to make a shallow dimple. Then remove the countersink, and use the regular drill bit. It will naturally want to start off in the little dimple that you made previously.
The countersink, being stubby, will pretty much go where you tell it to. A regular drill bit will often wander all over a round shaft trying to get started. With a brittle bit like carbide, this wandering will often snap the bit.
You can also use a center punch and a hammer to do about the same thing. Using the countersink just verifies that your work is properly positioned directly beneath the drill chuck (if you don't move the work while changing bits).
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Thanks, that made it clear.
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All I can say is WOW and thank you Jeff 
I made 1 call to McMaster-Carr, gave them the part numbers [that TinMan spent lots of time researching out], credit card stuff, UPS store nearest me and my drill bits MAY be here tomorrow
Thank you TinMan for once again going above and beyond to help me :clap2:Dan---I ordered 4 5/64 bits. If you would like 1 or 2 just let me know
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