My brother dropping in at Waimea!

Nice... surfing is something I only did once, the spero in me could only handle one addiction.;)

Cheers, Don

46yrs old and still charging. Nice Boards! Those big ones look like they would go well at Giant Uluwatu. We had one day this year which was pretty intense.. 15-18ft backs glassy perfection and lined up for hundreds of yards. If you like surf have a look in the Gallery on the Ulusub.com website. There's a few shots I've taken over the years.

Surfing ruined my life for many years then I got into spearfishing lol

Quote from toptuna

Surfing ruined my life for many years then I got into spearfishing lol

Care to elaborate?

Surfing can be so pure....but there is that adrenaline issue. When I would drive to the beach, thinking it was going to be decent.....and it was flat or totally blown out, well, "might as well go get drunk". The anticipated high of surfing had to be replaced by something.

Learning to surf changed my life and is what brought me to be so close with the ocean. Living in Ft. Lauderdale there is little to no surf which kills me (actually had more spots on the Gulf Coast). This is actually a tad ironic as I just stripped the wax from my board and made the decision to start making the drive north (~ an hour) and start surfing again. May even buy a paddle board so I can surf these piddly ass little waves we get here. There is nothing in the world that can replace surfing for me......though freediving does come in a close second. :cool2:

Quote from shallow runner

Learning to surf changed my life and is what brought me to be so close with the ocean. Living in Ft. Lauderdale there is little to no surf which kills me (actually had more spots on the Gulf Coast). This is actually a tad ironic as I just stripped the wax from my board and made the decision to start making the drive north (~ an hour) and start surfing again. May even buy a paddle board so I can surf these piddly ass little waves we get here. There is nothing in the world that can replace surfing for me......though freediving does come in a close second. :cool2:

Well said. The two sports actually go well together; when the weather is good for surf then the vis usually sucks and offshore can still be risky. When the weather is good for diving then it's flat and the boards are collecting dust.

Great pics, love the shaping room images. At 46 and still paddling out at Waimea, can't ask for much else.

cool stuff. That dude on the right is looking like "damn, i best not say anything."

Good stuff.

Glassy 18ft backs was incredible to be out in. But scary stuff. I didn't get any big ones, I did get dragged underwater for over 1OOyds on one missed drop.. Thank god I didn't get caught inside by any of the sets though.

Quote from hank

Care to elaborate?

Surfing can be so pure....but there is that adrenaline issue. When I would drive to the beach, thinking it was going to be decent.....and it was flat or totally blown out, well, "might as well go get drunk". The anticipated high of surfing had to be replaced by something.

Surfing ruined my life at times also. It's pretty easy to become completely narrow focused, chasing every swell, suddenly leaving work when the wind changes. Being obsessed with new equipment. Endlessly planning and mind surfing international surf trips to try and find that wave of a lifetime. Burning tanks of gas just to reach a far off beach, only to turn around and surf your home break before the tide comes up. Paddling out in the dark just before sunrise just to be first out at Malibu, only to find 3 dozen guys already shoulder hoping in the dark? Checking surfline 12 times before lunch, even though you won't have time to surf for 2 weeks. Waiting in the parking lot line at San-O for 2 hours, only to find out it's too small for your 9'8", and should have brought your 10'2".

Wait, that sounds just like spearfishing!

Quote from dustyyoungblood

Surfing ruined my life at times also. It's pretty easy to become completely narrow focused, chasing every swell, suddenly leaving work when the wind changes. Being obsessed with new equipment. Endlessly planning and mind surfing international surf trips to try and find that wave of a lifetime. Burning tanks of gas just to reach a far off beach, only to turn around and surf your home break before the tide comes up. Paddling out in the dark just before sunrise just to be first out at Malibu, only to find 3 dozen guys already shoulder hoping in the dark? Checking surfline 12 times before lunch, even though you won't have time to surf for 2 weeks. Waiting in the parking lot line at San-O for 2 hours, only to find out it's too small for your 9'8", and should have brought your 10'2".

Wait, that sounds just like spearfishing!

So what was the downside of all this? :thumbsup2:
My first wife once asked me, "If I said you had to give up surfing or me, which would it be"? Well, given that she's my ex, I'm pretty sure you can guess my answer. But anyone who would make someone give up what they love "to prove your love for them" is full of shit.