Building a hybrid?

    It´s just a point of view, but there is something about sticking toghether two different pieces of material that makes me wonder if not´s weak somehow. I had owned a couple of top notch hybrids and i was not impressed with their performance. In México we have an ole saying " Pa que la cuña apriete tiene que ser del mismo palo" ...The best wedge is made out the same wood.


    I have found that both euros and full wooden guns, both perform better than any hybrid hands down. But that´s subjective i may say.

    I'm a Speardiver, not a freediver

    Hi Jeff here are the mesurements of my 55" Wong, the wood is 25 long x 1.5 wide x 1 7/8 tall.


    The tube is 25.75 inches long x 1 inch wide


    muzzle 4 x 1.5 x 1.5


    gun has a omer aluminum reel full of line have to substract that to 5 lbs it weighted.


    Pucho

    Pucho
    Aguadilla, Puerto Rico

    Thank You Pucho! That's what I've been needing. My intent was to build something just a little larger for my mid water gun, so that it could handle three 5/8" bands without knocking my teeth out.


    What I have designed is 58" long
    The wood is 2.25" tall by 2.25" wide by 27" long
    The tube is 1.375" diameter by 27" long
    Muzzle adds 3", and the shaped rubber butt pad adds 1"
    Handle is 1.4" below centerline of the shaft
    Total weight to be approximately 8 lbs

    My wong the muzzle have 3 holes and he send me 3 bands, I put the 3 bands and try it, it feels a little harder but nothing like hurt me, I use it only with 2 bands.


    I weight a 130 sea sniper reef pro no reel and it was 6lbs.


    Pucho

    Pucho
    Aguadilla, Puerto Rico

    Edit - Weight without shaft will be about 7.25 lbs, ballasted to float convincingly without the shaft. Could be 7.5 lbs and just barely float.


    Top version has an enclosed track in the wood section. Bottom version runs the open track tube all the way to the trigger mech.


    Let's see how a scanned AutoCad file works as a picture file.


    More wood equals greater mass. Obviously my friend to help to manage recoil. But secondly, the extra buoynacy forward of the handle allows me to position ballast in the extreme rear and counteract the natural nose heaviness of the hybrid design.

    Edited once, last by Guest ().

    Quote from Toledo970

    So no full enclosed track from muzzle to trigger?


    I thought about it. But it really adds a lot of complexity to things, and I'm just not sure of the benefit when my intended configuration is no more than three bands, and no smaller than a 5/16" shaft. I like having the enclosed muzzle when it comes to wrapping the shooting line, but I'm not even sure how much the rear enclosed section adds as far as accuracy or shaft whip. The main reason that I am considering a raised enclosed track in the rear is that the flat top makes it possible to use the solid wire wishbones without tearing up the wood, and keeps everything neatly arranged for a really clear sight picture. Similar to this earlier model:


    Tito, of the Longfins, told me that the back part of the enclosed track does all the work. I don't know if it's true but it seems logical to me. It is at the point of release that the force is most acting on the shaft to bend sideways if at all. Once it can't bend and starts going straight I think that should keep it straight. Really a slow motion vid would be the only thing that proves it one way or the other.


    Jeff, if there's one person I know that should have a slow motion camera rig it's you :) Maybe you and Chad. Solve those life mysteries for us!

    Already looking great and is only a drawing, nice, nice, mine is the first one in 60":D.


    Pucho

    Pucho
    Aguadilla, Puerto Rico

    I know what happens when you design by committee (the camel), but curious if anyone has an opinion on the necessity of the enclosed track in the rear, vs. an open track tube all the way back?


    I know that most people don't like the solid wishbones, so that's something that I have to evaluate based on my own tastes.

    i love the solid wishbones on my adapted biller.
    They make the loading super easy because they click in letting you know you are good to go. plus they dont break down at all


    i am a big fan personally

    i like to spear fish

    I always ask me the same, those 12 or few more inches that are enclose on the back do they really make a difference if any shaft wip?


    Also I hate metal wish bones and the euro ones with the moving parts I hate them more, I think they are noisy and dont like the way they look, but thats me:D.


    Pucho

    Pucho
    Aguadilla, Puerto Rico

    Jeff, I don't see how enclosing the back of the track can be a negative in any way. I'd say do it. The design looks both solid and sleek.


    As we discussed today, I'm thinking about making a BIG hybrid. Something in the 65-68" range that will handle tuna type power, but move like butter through the water. Maybe a new carbon design that starts fatter at the back and transitions quickly to a thin front section would be fun.

    Has a big power hybrid ever been done that you know of? How many bands are you thinking?

    Quote from Pucho

    Also I hate metal wish bones and the euro ones with the moving parts I hate them more, I think they are noisy and dont like the way they look, but thats me:D.


    Pucho

    We call the articulated wishbones quitadedos (finger removers) :D

    i think a friend of ours nearly tore off his finger with one of those.


    do you grip the gun in front of the wishbones while hunting? i think just the mental aspect of one of


    those things coming loose and tearing up my hand would not let me relax:0



    Quote from LunkerBuster

    i love the solid wishbones on my adapted biller.
    They make the loading super easy because they click in letting you know you are good to go. plus they dont break down at all


    i am a big fan personally

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