Posts by mosaad

    Getting the handle/grip/hand/arm up inline with the shaft is important, but I disagree about it being %80 of the accuracy. Most of the accuracy comes from correctly configured stock, bands and shaft.

    The point I made which you took issue with has no direct correlation to accuracy, I just meant that you can only shoot the gun holding/gripping it in one way with this contoured handle. The simplest example to understand it is if you were to pass this gun to a dive partner to use for some reason, and he was a lefty, it would be difficult for him to shoot. Actually the pictured handle looks left handed so my example would be vice versa. But whatever floats your boat..

    Yes ,its not possible if right hand to left hand, I got the point

    I haven't tried this handle. The difficult point with this type of handle configuration is whether the trigger slot matches your trigger mechanism as far as range of movement and/or space available inside the trigger guard. The trigger itself can sometimes be cut if the trigger guard is too shallow. But that may affect the trigger pull.

    In general I'm not a fan of heavily contoured speargun handles, because you can only shoot the gun in the straight forward position.

    (you can only shoot the gun in the straight forward position) I didn't get the point ? actually that handle suppose to absorb recoil so no misalignment in shooting ,accurate design wood handle is very difficult to get ,if you made a good one you will get very sharp precise shoot ,that's why some guys after building the gun they will say it not shoot accurate ,80% shooting accuracy coming from handle as long as you have built accurate dimensional stock .

    very old thread ,definitely you got answer ,this for those who still read thread ,

    for neptonic or similar trigger usually the flush of the trigger house need a 7 mm deep track shaft is 7 as well ,as the housing is 2 mm and spear engaged part is 5 mm so you should use your router to 7 mm deep track .

    after a year of gaining experience

    6,6.5 + 40 gun till 100

    7mm shaft +30cm gun till 100

    7.5mm shaft + 25cm gun 110 to 120

    8mm shaft = + 23cm gun over 130

    Anyone tried to use colorant dye with epoxy made from Gold ? the gun will be look like a trophy :) ,same Tomb Raider movies

    Good morning everyone ,

    Recently I have seen some guys using marbling look poured track I thought its made from colored epoxy but he told me polyurethane giving him good results with pigments ,anyone tried to use that ?for poured track we search for sliding no friction and strength , graphite with epoxy and Thixotropic Agent can do that ,how pur can achieve:/ that ?

    Hi ,

    recently I have been involved in building some high alloy vessels and want to share small valuable information ,we used to weld and fix parts made of 316 SS to our guns cause of its corrosion resistance mainly but its soft compared to other alloy so usually we use 2.5 mm to 4 mm wires /plate to maintain the strength ,here is the new idea if u use a duplex SS or nickel alloy usually the strength is more by 1.5 time ,for 3 mm line anchor you can use 1.5 mm duplex stainless with same strength also for line guide wire u can use 1.5 mm nickel wire without worried it ll bend easily , handle frame can be reduced to 1.8 mm thick plate with same strength of 2.7 mm ,this not new information I know for experienced guys here but I shared it everyone .

    its done

    Measure from ring in front till rubber fixing anchor divide by 3.4 in my case 7 mm 120 spear

    Just tried today in murky water ,unfortunately cant see where it go but feel my hand ,its like u fix silencer to ur gun beside zero recoil and i mean zero recoil really,cant believe why gun not rebounc?

    I can't remember the speargun center of mass ever being in the middle. Usually it's closer to the handle, so more weight is needed towards the front. I suppose you can rest the gun on its center of mass (with shaft and bands loaded), then tape all the required weight to it in different positions while keeping it balanced. Needless to say don't let it fall as it could discharge.

    just did it with 90%success :) but 3 places of lead +aluminium handle frame

    I am building new multiply or inverted roller what ever the name ,not interested in that kind of speargun but it was a challenge with my buddy ,I almost finish and I just need 2 small info , as per the sketch where I should put the anchor for the rope which come after the pulley ? before or after the roller pocket ? second how to calculate the rubber length ? its 7mm spear 120 cm length ,2 pairs of 14 small ID rubber .

    this sketch for same spear

    Rubber strech same 380

    Rubber difference is 5 cm for same rubber

    As I understand there are more energy in the longest one (57) even both of them in 380% strech

    If the question is which band setup will propel an identical shaft further, yes the longer power-stroke with the same stored energy will be faster off the sling.

    But if the question is the amount of stored energy, they should be the same with the same % elongation.

    Look at rifles, you can have two rifles chambered in .308. If shooting identical ammo, the ammo has the exact same stored energy. But if one rifle has a longer barrel, the bullet will have more time to reach max muzzle velocity................... wait what forum am I on?:D

    this confusing me ,i think in spearit formula they not added length of rubber as a factor in the calculation of force ,so how this will be different ?

    the design of wood speargun shall keep band holes as far as possible and contact notch or shark as near as possible to the trigger .