Posts by mosaad

the spear brand ? spring steel handle the extra power more than normal stainless 17-4PH ,, do you have access to 7.5 mm spear

I have uploaded few files which I have been using in last few years you can Download the STL /STEP/M3F files and start building your speargun on CNC or modifying them .

Roller speargun design
https://www.cgtrader.com/produ…argun-spear-length-140-cm
classic speargun design https://www.cgtrader.com/produ…pear-trigger-ermesub-back

Handle design

https://www.cgtrader.com/produ…cb-41cf-ac1d-4efefd1899b5
https://www.cgtrader.com/products/speargun-handle-left
https://www.cgtrader.com/products/speargun-handle
https://www.cgtrader.com/products/left-hand-speargun-handle
https://www.cgtrader.com/products/speargun-line-guide
https://www.cgtrader.com/produ…e2-429c-8fad-0ca6820e02f7
https://www.cgtrader.com/products/trigger-line-release

Quote from Dan

Getting the handle/grip/hand/arm up inline with the shaft is important, but I disagree about it being %80 of the accuracy. Most of the accuracy comes from correctly configured stock, bands and shaft.

The point I made which you took issue with has no direct correlation to accuracy, I just meant that you can only shoot the gun holding/gripping it in one way with this contoured handle. The simplest example to understand it is if you were to pass this gun to a dive partner to use for some reason, and he was a lefty, it would be difficult for him to shoot. Actually the pictured handle looks left handed so my example would be vice versa. But whatever floats your boat..

Yes ,its not possible if right hand to left hand, I got the point

Quote from Dan

I haven't tried this handle. The difficult point with this type of handle configuration is whether the trigger slot matches your trigger mechanism as far as range of movement and/or space available inside the trigger guard. The trigger itself can sometimes be cut if the trigger guard is too shallow. But that may affect the trigger pull.

In general I'm not a fan of heavily contoured speargun handles, because you can only shoot the gun in the straight forward position.

(you can only shoot the gun in the straight forward position) I didn't get the point ? actually that handle suppose to absorb recoil so no misalignment in shooting ,accurate design wood handle is very difficult to get ,if you made a good one you will get very sharp precise shoot ,that's why some guys after building the gun they will say it not shoot accurate ,80% shooting accuracy coming from handle as long as you have built accurate dimensional stock .

Hi ,

Anyone have tried that Andre speargun handle and have a feedback after using the handle ?

Andre ergonomic teakwood handle with stainless steel frame

thanks for your replies , may be it's kind of plastic , is their a picture showing how it to do that knots ?

Anyone know how to use that piece in picture ?I have received some of it with monoline and can't get the idea behind it !

Quote from Dan

How would you control where it stays (top or bottom)?

you will route the slot in wood according to your dimension so line release will be rested in the elevation you marked .

hope this cross section picture give more details

Hey guys ,a question come to during fixing the side line triggers ,do you align the top of line release to top of slot or aligned to bottom of slot ? triggers similar to neptonic speardiver niletech ,so does it matter resting on flat side or bevel side of the sear ?

very old thread ,definitely you got answer ,this for those who still read thread ,

for neptonic or similar trigger usually the flush of the trigger house need a 7 mm deep track shaft is 7 as well ,as the housing is 2 mm and spear engaged part is 5 mm so you should use your router to 7 mm deep track .

Quote from Akira dkt

I like to keep shaft overhang to a minimum, especially using heavier gauge shafts (7.5 and up) this will keep your gun from being nose heavy.

You'll have to figure the exact length of overhang out on your own, find whats comfortable for you and the gun you are using.

In general pipe guns ( 26mm id carbon fiber tubes).

7mm shaft = Barrel length + 40cm
7.5mm shaft = BL + 30cm
8mm shaft = BL + 20-30cm ( I dont recommend going this thick on circular barrels, unless it is a polyplast, demultiplied or single roller)

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after a year of gaining experience

6,6.5 + 40 gun till 100

7mm shaft +30cm gun till 100

7.5mm shaft + 25cm gun 110 to 120

8mm shaft = + 23cm gun over 130

Anyone tried to use colorant dye with epoxy made from Gold ? the gun will be look like a trophy ,same Tomb Raider movies

Good morning everyone ,

Recently I have seen some guys using marbling look poured track I thought its made from colored epoxy but he told me polyurethane giving him good results with pigments ,anyone tried to use that ?for poured track we search for sliding no friction and strength , graphite with epoxy and Thixotropic Agent can do that ,how pur can achieve that ?

Hi ,

recently I have been involved in building some high alloy vessels and want to share small valuable information ,we used to weld and fix parts made of 316 SS to our guns cause of its corrosion resistance mainly but its soft compared to other alloy so usually we use 2.5 mm to 4 mm wires /plate to maintain the strength ,here is the new idea if u use a duplex SS or nickel alloy usually the strength is more by 1.5 time ,for 3 mm line anchor you can use 1.5 mm duplex stainless with same strength also for line guide wire u can use 1.5 mm nickel wire without worried it ll bend easily , handle frame can be reduced to 1.8 mm thick plate with same strength of 2.7 mm ,this not new information I know for experienced guys here but I shared it everyone .

its done

Measure from ring in front till rubber fixing anchor divide by 3.4 in my case 7 mm 120 spear

Just tried today in murky water ,unfortunately cant see where it go but feel my hand ,its like u fix silencer to ur gun beside zero recoil and i mean zero recoil really,cant believe why gun not rebounc?

Quote from Dan

I can't remember the speargun center of mass ever being in the middle. Usually it's closer to the handle, so more weight is needed towards the front. I suppose you can rest the gun on its center of mass (with shaft and bands loaded), then tape all the required weight to it in different positions while keeping it balanced. Needless to say don't let it fall as it could discharge.

just did it with 90%success but 3 places of lead +aluminium handle frame

still need more information how to get it accurate for that 7mm 120cm spear

I am building new multiply or inverted roller what ever the name ,not interested in that kind of speargun but it was a challenge with my buddy ,I almost finish and I just need 2 small info , as per the sketch where I should put the anchor for the rope which come after the pulley ? before or after the roller pocket ? second how to calculate the rubber length ? its 7mm spear 120 cm length ,2 pairs of 14 small ID rubber .

this sketch for same spear

Rubber strech same 380

Rubber difference is 5 cm for same rubber

As I understand there are more energy in the longest one (57) even both of them in 380% strech