Nice thread Yaudon.:thumbsup2: I'm in the same bot as you do. I found a few websites that sells the triggers . I just google it. But i will keep a close eye on this thread to get to know all the parts i need. met a guy that have most of this machines and tables to work on this project. With that beign said. Dan, Pucho, Marco and all of you guys in Puerto Rico that have your home made ones. Put your 50 cents. Help Yaudon and this boricua get the knowledge of Gun building in just one thread:D. and tell us what triggers mechanisms are good and why?
I'd say if you have basic carpentry skills, tools and some imagination you'll be fine.
I would use an all teak stock.
For a trigger I would use one of the Speardiver trigger models https://spearfishing.store/42-speargun-trigger-mechanism
A bigger question is what gun design you prefer. For example hip loader vs. chest loader, open vs. enclosed track etc.
Forget about the Biller, it has done it's job and got you started.
I personally like Kitto's three part M6 mech. Admittedly it's way overkill, but the $65 price is competitive and the trigger pull is the smoothest I have found. It is taller, though.
Whichever mech you go with, I really like to have a line release that automatically resets itself.
I like to make my own handles because I'm smaller than average. If I had to use an off-the-shelf handle, I find the Alexander to be reasonably comfortable, but I don't like the Aimrite.
For chest loading pads, I have recently found a nice soft rubber that I really like. I'll never go back to flip-flop sole. I posted it under the "Spearguns" section.
Measure twice, cut once . . .
Yaudon on triggers I have 2 poseidon sub and word great and I just ordered a M6 from Kitto, will let you know about this one soon, but I bet is a great one and smoth for more than 3 bands, dont knowif you have used before enclose track but they dont work to shoot inside caves, they are more like open reef and open water shots, a 130cm gun is a nice size reef clear water situstions.
Julios trigger looks really nice too, hope he jumps in this thread too.
Pucho
I think 54 55 inches is the ideal size for a wooden speargun. Small enough for close shots, long enough to touch far reached protein.
About the bands and size, i bet you will love the 2 5/8´s x 9 /32 configuration, anyway the delrin enclosed track should be 5/16 so you may use both sizes. The Alexander handle is nice.
About the bands and size, i bet you will love the 2 5/8´s x 9 /32 configuration, anyway the delrin enclosed track should be 5/16 so you may use both sizes.
You got it. I need the dimensions for an euro wood . I really dont know width and height. lenght is going to be 55 or 56. :). The details are still getting worked on. Handle i will go for the alexander. the mech might be neptonics and i already agree on the delrim enclose track adn the delrim muzzle. will call him personally a little bit later, to get this project going. but cant go further until i get the dimensions on the euro and i send him the chin chin to start.:D
Just post some pics to follow the process 
hmmm i just checked that neptonic handle.. i like that too..it will match the gun nicely too.. And i need to get the piece of rubber for the Butt.
Yep Yep Yep. tha is the one. I see straight shaft is here too. he is boricua too. Iknow he have made his own guns too and he got a beautifulleuro style he made hopefully he gets in here and post the dimensions onit. I be he can help me get it to get this start it
Take a look at these ones:
I still preffer euro style guns than "Riffe" style ones.
Marco it´s a matter of personal preference, but i prefer a Riffe wooden kind of gun over a Euro type any day of the week . Here´s why
wood seems more bouyant and far more durable than aluminium and even C.fibre
Depending on the gun is as manuverable as Ali.
Any wooden gun can handle 3 9/16 bands with ease
You may route an enclosed track on it
They have an excellent reselling value
They look great
I have a couple of top notch euros and had used some more, but still i have the subjective feeling that wooden guns shoot better. At the end of the day i think is like the vainilla and chocolate argument, I can´t argue with your logic though, cause you seem to be really succesfull with Vainilla!! 
Qué pasa Montruo!?
Did you had the chance to see the links I posted? I was talking about Euro style wooden guns. All of your above "why's" apply to them... 
Far more beautiful than "Riffe" style. I like wooden handles better though.
However, for my style of spearfishing, I don't change a Rob Allen.
I must admit, they are beautiful guns. I love the sweeping lines, which makes me appreciate the craftmanship even more because can see how they are more difficult to make.
Marco buenos links, me gustan mucho los eba y la goma mimetic tremenda, despues que termine estos 2 arpones estare preparando un euro como 130 y me gustaria un hybrido.
Nice links Marco, i like the eba speargun and the mimetic bands, when I finish the guns I have will start on an euro 130cm and also would like to try a hybrid.
Pucho
Marco solo pude abrir el de armeriadelccarmen.com !! Está conmadre!! i am totally agree with you about the euro de madera. Riffe has to do something about the handle inmediately!!!
I haven't actually tried the Shapelock plastic on the Neptonics frame, but it looks like it would work great if you like the general shape of the Neptonics handle. I know Dan likes more rake (angle) but that's another thread . . . :poke:
Anyway, the shapelock is available from www.shapelock.com. The smallest size is 250g for $15, and that's enough to do about three handles. It sticks easily and bonds completely to itself, but will not stick to metal. So the skeleton of the Neptonics frame should work great, because the two halves of the shapelock (one on each side of the frame) can stick to each other in the middle and will be solidly locked in place.
The Shapelock comes only in white. To color it, use a tiny bead (about the size of a pencil eraser) of the dye paste that West Marine sells to color epoxy. You just heat up the Shapelock pellets until they stick together in a porous mass. Then add the dye, and knead it over and over until the color is uniform. Don't worry, the dye washes off your hands with soap and water.
To make the marbled look, start with a large piece of colored shapelock like that above. Then take a smaller piece (about a big spoonful) of white. Heat it up, and roll it out on wax paper into a long thread. Wrap the white thread randomly around your larger colored piece. Heat the two up together, and fold in half a couple of times to slightly blend the colors. The more you knead them together, the more uniformly they will blend, and the less contrast between the two colors. You can kind of see this on Wood Guy's handle, where one side has more distinct black/white, and one side has them a little more blended together.
There is no doubt that a custom carved and fitted wood handle is prettier. But the shapelock only requires a few minutes and a pot of hot water, so it lends itself well to those with limited time or tooling.
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