Advantages of a tube style float line

    This is a question for you guys experienced with using this kind of float line as well as a simple polypropylene rope. If you've never used both extensively please don't respond.




    I'd like to learn what are the real advantages of this float line so as to make a decision whether to recommend/stock it or not. At this point I really dislike the tube style float line, but I understand that there may be conditions I'm not aware of in which there would be an advantage to using it, and that's what I want to hear about.


    Based on my experience the tube style floatline and a polypropylene rope are equal in strength and both float. The disadvantages of the tube style float line are:
    1. It's bulky, can't be spooled so as to vary the length you're going to use. And takes too much space in general on the boat or in the dive bag.
    2. I don't like its texture, I find it slippery to grip.
    3. It's stretchy and doesn't allow me to feel the fish properly when playing it.
    4. It can be punctured or there can be water intrusion through the ends which will make it not float.
    5. Doesn't handle knots well, such as in the case when you have to use it to secure something that will not fit on the stringer or float.
    6. Time consuming to make or expensive to buy.

    Don,
    Its been a few years since I used polypro. The tube style seems to pull through heavy kelp a lot easier. Particularly on a low tide where the canopy is super thick. Other then that I think your points are right on. They can be a PITA.



    Mike

    I've used both. At first a regular RA floatline then a tube style I made. I carry both in my bag still but have the RA just in case.


    I like that it is stretchy. It absorbs fish runs and it absorbs the tugging action of waves. If I want to move a distance and the float is tugging it gives me some distance to build up speed before moving the full weight of the float around.


    I also has less drag than a rope one for pulling through the water or current.


    Also when holding the gun on the bottom the stretch can diminish hard tugs from the float above.


    It is easy to clean and is easier to coil that a rope one for storage.


    Alot of people seem to like them.


    I went diving with a divers direct employee and was told they never have the riffe ones in stock. Every time they get a shipment they sell them all quickly and couldn't understand why because it is just a $120 tube.

    Davie Peguero

    I use one. I use it because I got IT and the float at a good price.
    It does tangle out of the water a bit, but it is because I coil it incorrectly. I am lazy and just stuff it in my bag.


    Other than that I like it.


    You can borrow mine to see if YOU personally like it. One thing is seeing it, another is using it. Maybe it can be improved.

    i prefer it because
    1) it allows for more visibility from above the water from boats and other divers
    2) stretch
    3) better abrasion resistance over rough rock. it is really kind of hard to puncture them any way other than fish bite


    I also use the poly ones fine, i just like the tube better. maybe cos I made it...



    ..BTW Dan, mine has 400 lb tuna mono inside, not rope. i made it so there is about 10 ft of extra cord inside so as the tubing stretches, it will stop and the mono will engage.

    i like to spear fish

    I spent $50 on a float line just for it to flood a few months later I was pissed. They were nice but personally I would rather save my cash on something so simple. I really don't see much of a difference other than it's lack of elasticity. You can't go wrong with this stuff. I dive around alot of bridges and jetties when the ocean doesn't cooperate. I have found this rope to be "bullet proof'.


    I have been using this rigg for 2+ years now and it cost me less than $12 bucks.

    I'm using a poly rope right now (RA) just because I got tired after my second Riffe tube punctured (and got no money to throw away). I bought it (the RA) after the first one got punctured and didn't like it much.
    Then I considered making one on my own, but the savings would be like 30$ and I wasn't sure it won't leak, so I bought the second tube FL...


    Why I don´t like rope F.L's.? More drag and tend to tangle more. No matter how you spool it, will always tangle when you drop into the water. Also happens oftenly that I spool it before a descent and get tangle either with the float or with my belt. That never happened to the tubing one.


    Actually, my diving style is particular since I don't like to dive shallow spots and I always go in a boat, so I don't need to vary the lenght of the float line. I use a 100' one.


    Regarding the knots, I have to disagree with Dan, I've put groupers in traction with the tube floatline without any problem. Just a knot like this and hook it to the stringer.



    Space wise, my RA floatline is as bulkier as the Riffe. Maybe a little lighter.


    The only disadvantages I find in tubing floatlines are price and the tendency to puncture. Rope ones are indestructible.


    If I were you (Dan), I would stock both. The markup in a tubing floatline could be like 50 - 60$ per piece, while in a rope one like 20$. Additionally, You can stock the parts and make them custom lenght any time you get an order...

    Marco Melis

    A bad day fishing is ALWAYS better than a good day at work.

    I like the tube style because it tangles less, especially if you're diving with other people. I used to use a polypro rope and it would always get tangled with my buddy's line.

    When you're diving with buddies you're not supposed to be rubbing shoulders with them all along the way. You are supposed to maintain a distance which allows for visual communication. You are supposed to coil the float line between dives so you don't have the whole length of it trailing behind you to create drag when you dive, for other divers to cross with their line, or a boat to run over it, and your spotter on the boat to know where exactly you are as opposed to guessing how far you are from your float. Of course the tube style float line is too thick to coil and hold while you're swimming, and too thick to spool. It's funny how the advocates of the tube style float line never do any of these things which I consider extremely inconsiderate. It seems to promote irresponsibility IMO.

    Quote from Dan

    When you're diving with buddies you're not supposed to be rubbing shoulders with them all along the way. You are supposed to maintain a distance which allows for visual communication. You are supposed to coil the float line between dives so you don't have the whole length of it trailing behind you to create drag when you dive, for other divers to cross with their line, or a boat to run over it, and your spotter on the boat to know where exactly you are as opposed to guessing how far you are from your float. Of course the tube style float line is too thick to coil and hold while you're swimming, and too thick to spool. It's funny how the advocates of the tube style float line never do any of these things which I consider extremely inconsiderate. It seems to promote irresponsibility IMO.


    I disagree, you should be shoulder to shoulder with your buddy at all times. Taking turns to make a dive. One float line attached to a buoy, the other diver should use a gun rigged with a reel to avoid entanglements. You should always plan your dives and be close enough to assist your buddy if need be.

    I'm a Speardiver, not a freediver

    I don't know that I should even get started on this subject...I can;t recall how many times I have talked about the difference between the two.


    Yes, the tube style lines can be VERY expensive. However, if you make it yourself, the tube style can be made for about $35 in a 100' length.


    The pros and cons have been pretty well covered. I think the best attributes of the tube style, are high visibily, less drag and stretch- for shock absorbtion.


    The pros of the poly rope are, as far as I am concerned, are cost AND THAT IS IT. poly ropes lines fray, tangle and snag on every piece of structure imaginable. In my opinion, they are simply not worth the hassle.


    The most expensive parts of either is the hardware. I don;t find it necessary to have a "super spectra" core for a tube style floatline. After all, the line is only as good as the weakest point in the system, which is usually the shooting line. What good is a 1700lb spectra cored floatine if the shooting line is made of 400lb test mono with crimps?


    I like the tube style lines for all the reason previously mentioned. I don't find the lines slippery at all. There is a bit of difference between PVC and vinyl tubing though. Vinyl tends to be a bit stiffer and a little more slick. PVC, on the other hand is very "gummy" and grips well. It also stretches nicely, giving some shock absorbtion. The line will coil nicely when it is warm and depending on the material used for the core line will either be very easy to coil and manageable, or kink and twist to no end.


    Personally, I use 540lb dacron as a core line. It is very supple, has no memory, does not kink or bind and is very cheap, in comparison to spectra, with the same properties.


    I have never had a tube style line get cut or punctured. Not saying that it won't ever happen. I am sure it does. I just think the benefits of the tubes tyle lines far outweighs anything that the poly lines have to offer.



    What he said. :)



    John, what dacron do you use?

    I want to say it is New England Ropes. It's been a while since I have had the spool, but I bought a 2000' spool some time ago. I still have a few hundred feet left after making quite a few floatlines from it. I got it for something like $0.07 a foot.


    Just for a simple price breakdown, I paid $22 for a 100' length of tubing, $0.07 a foot for the dacron, $1.50 for each swivel and $1 for each quick link. In summary, I paid $32 for the parts and 15 minutes of my time to build a "premium" stlye tube floatline.

    I've seen a few floatline that are 3/8 polypro in a 1/2 inch PVC sleeve. The PVC would help it pull through the kelp better. A few guys were making these back in the mid 90's around PV. I don't recall if they were plugging the ends or just making a figure eight at the ends.I have not seen one for a long time but was thinking about putting one together.


    Mike

    Quote from Dan

    When you're diving with buddies you're not supposed to be rubbing shoulders with them all along the way. You are supposed to maintain a distance which allows for visual communication. You are supposed to coil the float line between dives so you don't have the whole length of it trailing behind you to create drag when you dive, for other divers to cross with their line, or a boat to run over it, and your spotter on the boat to know where exactly you are as opposed to guessing how far you are from your float. Of course the tube style float line is too thick to coil and hold while you're swimming, and too thick to spool. It's funny how the advocates of the tube style float line never do any of these things which I consider extremely inconsiderate. It seems to promote irresponsibility IMO.


    the only time that me and my buddy both use floatlines is when we're hunting in bluewater, so we aren't really swimming just drifting most of the time. We always used to have problems with tangled lines when I had a polypro line but we don't anymore.

    I have hunted extensivley with both. My Rob Allen float line wins hands down for everywhere except the kelp. All of my tube style lines are now called sink lines because they all have filled with water. I would go with reliability when choosing between the two.:toast:

    Ive d used both. Tube for me period. I can use rope if needed, but if i get to choose i pick tube. There is nothing that bother me more than getting the line tangled. With rope that happen very often. And feeling the weight of the buoy with the string with fish bothers me. Tube reduces that. That for divers that goes from the shore. From boat if leaving the fish at the boat. What ever is available. I never found Tube to be slippery. If the fish is pulling extremely hard you should not be pulling extremely hard anyway to avoid the fish getting ripped. Is cheap to make a good float line. But sometimes we don't get the time to get the items. We just buy what is already build.


    Dan you should carry it. or like Marco said. get the materials and build as requested by the customer. giving the hunter an option. You will make a nice profit even selling cheaper than the brand ones.

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